Brassy, rose-gold with a faint green hue and a platinum fleck. Lots happening on the nose: river rock minerality, rose petals, Turkish delight, very slight wild herbs, and a hint of sourdough and brioche. There is a bouquet of red fruits entwined with ripe golden queen peaches and musk sticks. It’s evocative and multi-dimensional. The intensity on the palate impresses: dry and savoury but full of textural depth. The interplay between acid and phenolics reminds you of that attribute in fine Nebbiolo, that leads to complex florals, particularly roses but some cherry blossom adding sedimentary depth. But you cannot escape the musk, with a hint of cinnamon apricot kernel. The finish is long and dry with a distinctive crunch on the exit. It’s edgy yet resolved, exciting yet calm.

Established in 2001 and set in the heart of Central Otago’s Upper Clutha basin, Akitu’s 12-hectare vineyard sits alone at 380 metres above sea level on a stunning north facing slope. Set just minutes from Lake Wanaka the semi-continental climate, with high sunshine hours, hot summers and dry autumns help to create wines of amazing fruit purity and complexity. The vineyard is entirely dedicated to Pinot Noir, block planted in 6 sections on 250-million-year-old schist soils. The Pinot Noir was handpicked early on a cold morning and immediately transported to the winery for very gentle whole bunch press cycle while the grapes are cold minimising colour pick up and phenolic extraction from the skins and ensuring plenty of juice solids to encourage lees complexity. No SO2 additions to ensure anthocyanin molecules are not bound up and release after ferment. Cold settling then immediately off to ferment. Neutral yeast to allow the fruit characters to express their character along with cool ferment to retain aromatics. Left on fine lees post ferment to build some palate texture.

It is simply delicious on its own. But a winner when paired with Salmon, smoked on toast with a side of caviar, perhaps kedgeree for the second course. White anchovies and grilled squid on the Barcelona waterfront would seem ideal.