While its roots are maritime, the Siren Nero d’Avola smells and tastes like it should be grown on a volcano – red ochre earth with a bright backbone. Even those with unbreakable wills will be forced into capitulation – rich berry and plum fruits are underscored with enough abundant exotic spice, burnt orange and lavender complexity to lure the canniest of wine drinkers to their fate.

Nero d’Avola isn’t a widely grown grape in McLaren Vale, meaning its yields are small enough to give Siren the benchmark for how small ‘small batch’ can be. Grapes are handpicked from Trotts Vineyard in Blewitt Springs which has sandy, limestone soil. 50% whole bunch ferment, 50% destemmed. Fermented with natural yeasts. The wine spends 18 months in old aok with 16 months on full lees.

A modern, cutting-edge collection of wines - just look at the labels - from the passionate and slightly bonkers trio of Dylan and Justin Fairweather and winemaker Sam Berketa. AB&D was founded in McLaren Vale in 2008 and is unconventional in its approach; there are no ‘regional, varietal or stylistic’ boundaries, just great wines from great fruit.

The plan is to craft a different wine for every letter of the alphabet - from Apostle (Shiraz-Durif blend) to Zaptung (crown-capped Prosecco). Each wine is unique and has a story and eye-catching label to go with it. A fab collection of wines that a causing quite a buzz in the wine scene.

Try with....birds....duck, goose, pigeon!

Jancis Robinson (Tamlyn Currin) "Lavender scented, parma violets, chalky. Victoria plums framed in lovely dry, spicy tannins. Strong caraway notes. It's a framework that owns the wine, spice over fruit, giving wiry strength and savour through the length of the palate. Bit of a rebel, heel-kicking spirit here, but basically, it's delicious. Drink 2018-2022" 17 points