Notes of shoe-leather on the nose with a palate driven by deep cassis, vanilla, fresh wet summer pudding, cream and the texture of a lolly-stick sucked clean. It’s an absolute bloody marvel.

We continue the long-standing theme of superstitious wines with Magpie, a bird which for many represents fortune, so the bottle has a dual-facing label to show either The Good Luck Club (front) or The Bad Luck Club (back) illustrated in that most animated of media: 19th Century Japanese Kabuki masks. It’s about the highs, lows, ayes and noes of winemaking, chance and the mad undulations of human existence.

The latest lovechild of renowned Barossa winemaker, Rolf Binder, and UK-based wine merchant, Noel Young. Magpie Estate purchased the Smalltown block in 2016, 40 hectares of 28 year old Shiraz and Cabernet in the premium Ebenaezer District of the Barossa Valley. Planted to 30% Cab Sauv and 70% Shiraz. This wine was aged in new and tertiary French oak for 24 months. The oak lends a subtle texture and structure to the fruit leaving the palate fresh so this is a bright, varietal Cab that wears its oak lightly as a structural veil rather than anything more monstrous.

It’s lovely with steak tartare, seared tuna, roast Mediterranean veg and some crunchy, matured hard cheese.